When I was in San Francisco, I had time for a few meals. One such meal was dinner at Cotogna. I was there for pasta. The question was, which ones? When I heard the cordonetti described, I knew I had to have it. When it arrived, it didn’t disappoint. The hand-cut whole wheat noodles had a solid bite and a deep wheat flavor. The morels were earthy, mushroomy, and buttery. They were the reason I ordered the dish. The morels were the stars, and they were abundant. Too often dishes with seasonally luxurious ingredients are all about the name-dropping, with very little in the dish. My beautiful bowl of pasta was all about spreading morel mania.
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