Watercress is a hit-or-miss vegetable. We do not see it much out here, so when we see it in peak condition, we buy it, cook it, eat it, and even occasionally serve it to guests. Watercress sparks memories. First of all, it reminds me of the first meal we usually eat when we get back to New York—Chinese takeout. We order our basics: Peking duck, fried dumplings, spare ribs, and watercress with garlic. Funny thing is, we rarely see or eat watercress other than with Chinese food. Sure, we have used the micro variety on occasion and even paid homage to grand preparations where watercress is a puree, sauce, or velouté. In our hands, years ago, we made a watercress soup which we served with slow-cooked salmon and sweet Maine shrimp. The soup was tasty, albeit served three hours late—that is another story from our days catering, where we had to travel through a snowstorm to Connecticut. Yet, in retrospect and now with several more years of knowledge, I believe watercress should be served simply, with a whisper of garlic and drops of olive oil, sitting on the plate similar to how it grows, as a tangle of watercress.