Ash-cooked onion is chopped roughly and blended with egg yolk, mustard, cornichons, lemon zest and juice, and olive oil. The combination resembles the meatiness in taste and texture we crave from traditional steak tartare. Sprigs of not salty saltwort and aged Pecorino complete the dish.
We discussed working on an onion tartare before my trip to California. I certainly believe the trip, a wonderful meal at Coi, and a healthy discussion on food with Daniel Patterson helped clarify and drive the sensibilities behind this assemblage of ingredients. This tartare is in its infant stage. It is delicious but can certainly mature and develop. A bit of refinement, editing, and clarity will help this dish grow into something great.
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