I really don’t miss the calorie counts on everything in New York. Yes, I probably should know for sure that most of my favorite indulgences—ice cream sundaes, chili cheese fries, nachos with guacamole, pizza with the works, etc.—have nine thousand calories, but that does take the fun out of things. People love to say that if you eat high-quality foods, you need less to satisfy you—not always true. On the other hand, a great meal does make the world a better place to be, always. Chocolate does not heal all wounds, although a great steak with a fabulous syrah will distract you long enough to pretend that’s true. The things that annoy me most are the things I most need to hear. It’s easier to be gracious after the fact. Fondue can make friends if you pick the right filling for your pot. Cheese is never a neutral subject. If you share a great meal, fine dining or rustic, you’ll remember each other forever, like it or not. Choose your dining companions with care. The best meal you’ll ever have is still waiting to happen; be open to it.