This ham is incredible. We were fortunate to be introduced to it at Di Bruno Brothers on 9th Street in Philadelphia. It has now overtaken our minds and palates and become a spark for a number of new and evolving dishes. To begin with, it has an intense aroma; it smells like country ham at a carnival, rich and nutty. Your mouth starts watering from the scent alone. The meat itself is buttery and almost melts in your mouth. It is redolent of that indefinable “piggy essence” that you only find in good hams. Is it actually nutty, or is it perception? We really couldn’t say. Much like the best iberico hams, it is nuanced and layered with flavors that linger on your palate. It is also indisputably salty, an expected quality in country hams; it demands a bit of temperance. You can easily overindulge, but that also means you savor each bite even more slowly.
It brought to mind smoked salmon. That is yet another salty, decadent treat. We love sandwiches made with crusty baguettes spread with fresh cream cheese and layered with smoked salmon or lox. We knew instinctively that this Surryano would be wonderful in a similar preparation. In fact, the very next morning, we scrambled eggs with onions and toasted a baguette. Instead of cream cheese, we added slivers of local butter and a single layer of ham. Served together, it was the breakfast of champions and stirred our imagination for even more ways to use this wonderful treat. Wrapped around black bass overnight for a light cure, infused into cream for a transcendent chowder, lightly draped over deviled eggs, or filled with a cold cauliflower cream in the style of a beggar’s purse. Taste it and tell us what you would do…
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