Yesterday we made our first peach glazed doughnut. We made the glaze with our pie-in-a-pot peaches. The glaze was sweet, acidic, floral, and bright. It was a tasty doughnut. Reflecting on the doughnut afterward, I felt that it was missing something. My relationship with cooked peaches has me wanting, yearning, searching for pie. I love the sweet, nutty, buttery flavor of pie crust as a complement to cooked peaches. To bring that idea to the doughnut, I made brown butter-white chocolate crumbs. I pulverized pressure-toasted milk solids with white chocolate chips and salt. The result was a sweet, vanilla, buttery, and rich crumb. It was not pie crust. It was an amplified flavor expression that I could sprinkle on the peach glaze to deliver the flavors I wanted. Today the peach doughnut was substantially better. Every dish (or doughnut) is a work in progress.
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