It is fun working with the parts and pieces of an idea, shaping and twisting them into an evolving result. For the opening menu at American Noodles, we fine-tuned our smoked burrata and watermelon. We added a lovage oil and torn leaves of lovage from our garden pots to the final dish of smoked burrata, watermelon, pickled watermelon rind, and watermelon balsamic. The components were sweet, salty, sour, bitter, herbaceous, crisp, creamy, juicy, and addictive. As I reflected on the flavors of the dish—smoke, watermelon, lovage, and balsamic—I realized we used to serve a canape of striking similarity at The Bradley Inn in 2002: watermelon cubes with balsamic syrup and lovage puree. It amazes me what sticks and what slides away.
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