This was the Harbison by Jasper Hill Farm. It wasn’t quite ready when we bought it, so we let it temper under a glass dome at a cool room temperature for 24 hours before we lifted off the top. The cheese was elastic and smooth. It had a haunting smokiness to it, perhaps from the bark that was wrapped around it. It was creamy and earthy, with the complex flavor of springtime sunshine in the meadow beside the barn. We made a meal out of it and savored every bite. This is the kind of cheese that exemplifies what great cheese is all about.