The first time I met this vegetable, it was referred to as a Jerusalem Artichoke. Now it is more commonly known as the Sunchoke. Both names are derived from the fact that it is a member of the Sunflower family. The Italian word “girasole” is translated into English as “sunflower.” The “Jerusalem” in “Jerusalem Artichoke” is considered to be a bastardization of “girasole.” The moniker of artichoke was added on to denote the flavor profile of the plant, which does taste remarkably like an artichoke heart.
During my first introduction to this vegetable, it was peeled and diced, cooked down with heavy cream, pureed with butter, and strained to make a silken, dreamy spoonful. It can be served as a rich potage in small cups, garnished with shavings of white truffle as a special treat on a snowy evening. Or it can be left a little bit thicker and snuggled up alongside a crackling slice of roast pig with a scattering of mushrooms and winter savory. It can be slow-poached in milk and then whizzed in a blender and poured over an equal weight of white chocolate chunks to melt into a sweetly savory ganache. It can be scrubbed, sliced, and pickled in a blend of hot vinegar, chili peppers, herbs, and agave syrup to create a delicately crunchy condiment. It can be mashed, hashed, or roasted in a hot oven with butter and garlic for a molten side dish to a perfectly roasted chicken. It can be sliced, fried, and dusted with sugar or salt to create an addictively crunchy taste sensation.
Sunchokes can be found in the market seasonally from October to March. They should be plump and heavy with basically unblemished skins and an almost translucent shiny patina, much like good ginger root. Once they start to look dry and withered, they are well past their prime and should be avoided. As with most produce, if it doesn’t look healthy and appetizing on the shelf, it probably won’t improve itself in your kitchen. They are best stored wrapped in a couple of paper towels in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator. Jerusalem Artichokes can be used peeled or unpeeled, depending upon your preferences. Although recipes for raw sunchokes abound, be careful, they are known to cause flatulence, and some sources recommend blanching the vegetables before consuming them. They do oxidize, so when their skins are removed, hold them in acidulated water until they’re ready to be cooked. Also, they cook relatively quickly, so if you’re playing with them for the first time, keep a sharp eye on the process. Treat them like your favorite root vegetable (with a slightly shorter cooking time) and you will quickly discover the versatility and deliciousness of this humble tuber.
About the Author
