Crisp, cool mornings seem to help clarify and focus ideas that have been bouncing around in my brain. This morning yielded the successful execution of goat cheese gnocchi. Similarly, we paired the gnocchi with squab, celery leaf, and olives in a play off the old Thanksgiving relish tray. The gnocchi are similar in texture to delicate ricotta gnocchi, yet in this instance, we are able to eliminate the flour and eggs normally associated with binding dumplings.